I wondered, as I watched Mick Jagger appear on tour in a variety of Oriental-inspired fashions this summer, whether or not his audience would start to copy his wardrobe. Not that I can see mass movements of people wearing wrapped-around-the-ankle harem styled pants or long purple capes over tank tops and blouson jackets, to say nothing of carrying fans. I mean those studded jumpsuits he wore in 1972 never really caught on, did they? But, talking about Oriental clothing., ,1 have been wearing Chinese robes and pajamas out in public for years, And collecting and carrying fans. Now before anyone says "so what,"" or here she goes again, claiming to be ahead of the times. I'll explain why I bring this up.

I originally bought that stuff because it was 1) tacky to be sure, but 2) extravagant, and 3) slightly exotic fashion. Sort of like those long Rama-like hippie gowns of the late 1960's without the hateful implications. It was easy to slip

on a red satin (okay, so it's probably j polyester, but the effect is the same) §■ jacket embroidered with flowers and | featuring frog fasteners and a mandarin collar over a pair of jeans and instantly feel special, Kimonos worn as coats were great in the summertime; not only because they look slightly flamboyant and/or unusual, but because they make sense, Who could ask for anything more than to buy them by the dozens in all colors, for under ten dollars each, in the better shops of the various Chinatowns. Obviously I wasn't the only one with this brainstorm; Cherry Vanilla (who has the figure to do so) wore authentic Chinese slit-to-there sheath dresses, and Pierre Laroche says he was wearing kimonos when he worked (and was asked to leave) Elizabeth Arden, There were others and, whenever I would see anyone these past few years in a satin quilted overblouse with Oriental overtones, I would lust after it, wonder where I could buy it,

Despite the screams of some of my friends when 1 would wear these items and become instantly recognizable in the wings of the Academy of Music stage or in the dim backroom of the now defunct Max's Kansas City, I had fun with this particular part of my wardrobe.

Now I am not smiling, I cringe with horror as 1 read Time magazine telling me that Oriental fashion Is in, that Chinese Is the new LOOK, and talk about the perversion of culture, they even use terms like "Mao a la mode/" I can just see what's coming, The Beautiful People will be ripped off for thousands of dollars (perhaps rightly so) for stuff they could get just as easily on Grant Avenue in San Francisco (remember Flower Drum Song?) and I'm terrified at how this will affect rock groups. Although I can't quite see, say, Ronnie Van Zant in a flow: ered print silk wraparound Kimono, I'll never forget how one of my favorite black satin jackets with just a touch of glitter from London's Bus Stop was banished forever to the back of my closet when it was there for all to see on the body of one of the Mott the Hooples (the one with the hairy chest and the bangs). If I see my gorgeous emerald green satin robe with the gold fire-eating dragon on the back of the next Uriah Heep album cover (or have they broken up?) I'll know it's curtains forever for my Eastern drags. And don't tell me about Sparks" last LP photo— they still don't count.

Fans are something else altogether. Obviously, they are a prop. So? Props can be great, fans can be sexy, and believe me they're mighty helpful on a Sunday afternoon in Memphis when it's 104 degrees and you're waiting for hours, to see some band. And, contrary to all that rubbish about the more you fan yourself the hotter you get, it does work. There's something so eighteenth century about it, very, romantic. Those Chinese lacquered parasols are nice too, and another tipoff—now that platform shoes might be on the way out for some (I still like being taller,. I must admit) — are those t-strap black flat shoes selling in Chinatown for five dollars. They look very much like the old Capezio styled ballet slippers that some people used to wear as party shoes years ago. Very .comfortable as well.

I, for one'^don't think any of this has to do with politics; with any President's trip to China, or the growth of EastWest trade, or even the movie of the same name. Let's face it, people are bored, particularly with clothing, and what's left? I mean—I give in somewhat—jeans and t-shirts are functional, but try putting a shiny Chinese styled pajama top over your t-shirt and | jeans and see if you don't feel better. ° Those black dresses and feather boas have had it, and I know of only one man who took the Gatsby look seriously. All this stuff doesn't only have to be "dressy" (it's really h funny word if you think about it); some of the plainer, cotton robes look'great with jeans, just like more stylish jacket tops.

Perhaps Chinoiserie is a fad for some, while others think it looks too hookerish. But I have been deadly ser: ious about jny collection for some time, and when people would ask me where I got the stuff, in a typically old fashioned "feminine" way I would hesitate to reveal the informatipn. However,^ when I read about silk lacquered jackets, high collared mandarin robes, golden scrolled pajamas, and handpainted silk all going for obscene prices from designers such as Adolfo or Bill Blass, for Christ's sake, as wlell as Kenneth Jay Lane (who designs what is euphemistically termed "jewelry"), I get tpnad enough to say just go down to "The Orient" on Hollywood Boulevard in L. A. , or any one of a dozen shops on Grant Avenue in San Francisco, or New York's lower depths. Mary Beth Medley and I recently went berserk on Grant Avenue, trying on every robe and pajama in the place like two yentas in the Bahamas, much to the confusion of the elderly Chinese proprietors who no doubt were used to the chopstick and paper lantern tourist trade.

(Note: Perhaps the one "couture" designer who really does have the right to market this stuff at high prices is Kenzo Takada. He's Japanese, has been working in Paris for years, and ■ has tejrrific stores called Jap. His clothes are well made, but unfortunately they usually require someone who is close to six feet tall to wear them properly, which lets me out. But I don't begrudge him the success.)

What to do if there's no Chinatown in your town? Well—if you see the stuff that you like on someone else, ask them where they got it. There is a chance that you might stumble into someone who sells it privately—actually imported from China, like Sybao who I met in the makeup department of Bendels. Or don't worry, it's all sure to be in the Sears catalogue soon.^r