ELEGANZA

ELEGANZA

Who Wears the Pants in Stage Drag

Lisa Robinson

by

It occurred to me that I haven't written much about what rock stars are wearing recently; actually — I don't think I've been thinking very much about what rock stars are wearing. (Thank God I don't have to....) Obviously we have reached a point where anyone can set his or her own style without resorting to image crises or idol worship. No one should be checking out what Bowie is wearing, or copy Mick Jagger's haircut, in order to figure out one's own act.

But what about costumes? Stage presentation, theatrics? When bands attempted to cash in on "glamrock" — something that worked for about twenty minutes — it almost instantly became boring. However, there are some performers who understand the visual impact of wearing something onstage out of the ordinary — something outrageous even, in order to give the audience stuff to look at as well as expand their own production.

Peter Gabriel is a good example; the Japanese / science fiction / monster / balloon costume worn on the recent Genesis tour was a scream, and his'emergence from that pink plastic tube was so cute. The same thing with the psychedelic multi-colored cone whirling around him. To me Peter always has been the mad hatter of rock, but honey, this was a hat. The reason that Peter's ensembles worked has a lot to do' with his understanding of the element of surprise. Rock and roll (for many) was initially a surprise as it blasted out at you from that car radio (or whatever) ... magic and mystery, something totally unexpected. Someone like David Bowie, on the other hand, completely misused theatrics during his Diamond Dogs show when he had that clumsy mirrored spaceship (or whatever) lumbering onstage for what seemed like twenty minutes. I mean you just knew that he was going to come out from inside it, didn't you? Ho-hum. Gabriel's costumes — and I include the cone and the long pink tube as costumes,, as well as the batwing cape and the flowered hats and the old man's face, etc. — usually come as a real surprise, and are often emptionally, as well as visually, surreal. I still remember when he stepped onstage at Philharmonic Hall several years ago in that fox head and long pink gown; I thought it was fabulous.

Labelle wore costumes that caused screams at their smash Metropolitan

Opera concert. Feathered headdresses, S & M handcuffs and whips attached to skintight body suits, silver studded crotches and bras — amaaazingly sexy and just what was needed to make a super hip, super chic Jplack audience react. Labelle surely would have cheated (to say nothing of turning off, to say nothing of the fact that they never would have even considered it) their audience by showing up in patchwork halter tops and blue jeans; it just isn't their style. In Labelle's case, as with Peter Gabriel — the costumes work. Of course there is always the danger that once worn, the costume ought never be

repeated again. But that s probably expensive, impractical, and not a reality in the forseeable future. But performers most certainly should beware against wearing their costumes offstage: NEVER EVER should any of these be seen at a party. Except in the case of Kiss; there I make an exception, I'd rather see them with their costumes and makeup on.

When Bryan Ferry started his rock career his costume involved black leather and slicked-back hair. Very 1950's Hood, and he was one of the First to wear shorter hair onstage in an interesting manner. All the kids in the London streets wanted to look like him, and whereas Bryan has probably lost touch with that street element recently — that's okay by me. I think he looks divine in a tuxedo. But when he starts to don those gaucho things, or even that Hitler Youth uniform .. . weellllll — it may be good for a fast giggle, but personally I think he's, missing the point. He's such a star that he can probably get away with a few mistakes, but lots of us were hoping that he wouldn't lose the eleganza touch. Say it isn't so, Bryan. After all, it hasn't hurt Sinatra all these years, staying in a dinner jacket.

When you talk about a group like — oh, say The Dolls, or even The Heavy Metal Kids in England, you can't talk seriously about costumes. Because even if Arthur did once wear a frilly apron their stage drag has always been fairly close to what they wear on the street. David Johansen probably won't always put on a classier top for stage than he would to go to the B & H for orange juice. Even if they make alot of money, I doubt seriously if it would change their style. I mean, just look at Keith Richard.

As far as Elton is concerned, he's a supershowman and his costumes are COSTUMES. I personally find the Liberace of Rock much more interesting in his Tommy Nutter suits than his onstage feathers, but I suppose he knows what he's doing. He really should play Vegas soon though.

And, of course, there are some performers who should stay as far away as possible from costumes. Actually — there are lots of performers who shouldn't be seen performing live, don't you agree? A good idea might be to have them perform from behind a black curtain — now there's a costume. I'll bet everyone would watch anyway; either they'd be too stoned and wouldn't notice the difference, or they'd wait for something ... anything, to happen. Listen, in many cases a black curtain would be far more visually interesting than what's there now. I won't mention names.